Now General Manager and Head Sommelier at celebrated Haggerston restaurant Planque, he sat down with us during preparations for their second birthday to reflect on his journey to this point, pertinent trends in wine, and the fundamentals of a satisfying dining experience.
When I was a kid, I used to play football every Saturday. After one game, I kicked my boots off in a tantrum and said 'I'm not going back, I don't want to play football'. I was quite naughty at the time and my mum saw it as something that gave me structure and discipline, so she told me it would have to be replaced with something else. And it ended up being youth theatre.
Acting became a huge passion – I did stints abroad and it became a huge part of my extra-curricular life and my social life. And, when I later began to discover good restaurants, I saw that the choreography, interaction, communication that I enjoyed so much in theatre had such obvious parallels with hospitality.
The whole thing was a performance. I noticed the front of house team playing characters as they were hosting their guests, presenting different versions of themselves in public than they were in private. It was like I was watching the live recording of a TV show and I had a front-row seat. The human element and the kinetic quality of the environment was so exciting to me.
I was in my mid-twenties. From the age of 16, I’d worked in pubs, bars, cafes and restaurants while at school, during my time at university, and then even alongside 9-5 office jobs. After ten years’ experience right across the spectrum of hospitality, I felt ready for a gear change.
At the time, I had a full-time job and was picking up shifts as a part-time waiter at Lyle’s in Shoreditch, east London. On a rare day off I visited friends in Bristol and they made a point of commenting on how animated I became when I was talking about the restaurant. It was the final nudge I needed. Not long after I quit the day job and went full-time on the floor.
At Lyle’s, I had begun to develop a keen interest in wine but felt like I had big gaps in my knowledge and needed to catch up. I became fixated with learning. I wanted to go home at the end of the day and feel like I knew everything I could at that moment. I didn’t want to ever feel like I was bluffing.
The interest turned into obsession and I feel lucky to say that I am genuinely still obsessed with wine to this day. And this impacts our approach to hiring and staff development at Planque. It’s assumed that if you’ve taken a job with us, you share our genuine passion for wine and you’re keen to learn.
Of course we invest heavily in training our staff but really the aim is to set a tone that prompts our team to stay curious, to indulge their interests and to find their own tracks. If someone is motivated to take responsibility for their learning, they benefit themselves and their team.
We think this can have a positive impact on the industry. Despite some progress over recent years, hospitality continues to be seen as a second-rate career.
By paying salaries, implementing an academic structure for learning, and having clear paths for progress, we’re fostering a professionalism that has the potential to advance the sector.
The trick is to balance this with the more playful, less formal qualities that are so important, which I’m confident we’re doing.
Firstly, we all know the huge strain agriculture puts on the planet. If there is an opportunity to work in a way that has less impact on the environment, that should be embraced.
In some regions of France, the amount of chemicals used during the production of wine has contaminated local water supplies to the point where it’s unsafe to drink. When you have field workers wearing hazmat suits to harvest grapes (to avoid skin and eye irritation), you have to question just how did we get to this point?
The context of history is important here – it was only in the mid-twentieth century that we started using chemicals to produce wine. Labour shortages drove up the cost of production – the use of chemicals brought it back down.
So, really, natural wine is a return to methods that had been commonplace for hundreds of years. We’re seeing similar movements in other sectors that replaced labour with synthetics – bread, cider, coffee.
And then you consider the shared trend across many industries of lower scale, higher quality. It’s true for natural wine and it’s true for coffee, chocolate, honey, even hot sauce.
There are less people involved in production, less steps on the supply chain. The value created by producers is distributed more fairly and with more transparency. Consumers are beginning to understand this and it’s being proven that they want to invest in it.
What we’re seeing is that the cloudy, funky bottles of natural wine attract more attention and so are often the gateway for the more curious wine drinkers. They’ll try chilled reds, oranges, pet nats and they’ll build an understanding of what they like and what they don’t.
The next step is usually something that tastes like the classic wines they love. Something like a natural white reminiscent of their favourite cabernet sauvignon.
Then they’ll recommend this more classic bottle to their less adventurous friend who’s been unsure what to try first. So these more accessible natural wines are just as important as the more off-piste stuff that first pulls people in. There really is a bottle for everyone.
The knock-on effect is that smaller producers are successfully participating in new markets, and are influencing larger producers to produce their own lines of natural wines.
Life is full of homogenous behaviours but we’re really seeing evidence that smaller entities can be successful, challenge the status quo, and tangibly contribute to progress no matter their size.
The end goal in hospitality is always satisfaction. It’s that simple. Our job is to enable the customer to choose something that they will enjoy. It shouldn’t be stressful, it shouldn’t be intimidating.
Sights, sounds and smells all contribute to how relaxing and accessible the environment is but this all falls down if the staff don’t have the empathy, perception and communication skills they need to make every single guest feel completely at ease.
It’s charisma, but the right sort. When used well, charisma is nuanced and its fluid and flexible. Read between the lines, understand someone’s body language, really listen. It’s these skills that tell your guests they can relax into their experience and, ultimately, leave satisfied.
Don't just take James' word for it, visit Planque and settle in for a glass or two of something delicious:
Planque
322-324 Acton Mews
London
E8 4EA
Open Tuesday-Thursday 6-11pm; Friday 6-11.30pm; Saturday 12-4pm, 6-11.30pm.
]]>Newcomer Wines are opening up their Dalston bar and garden for a day of music, cocktails, pizza and, of course, some of Europe's finest wines.
Naturally, Newcomer are on pours with a selection of their favourite bottles. We'll join them behind the bar with a couple of seasonal coffee cocktail serves.
World Famous Gordos will be slinging slices and what's pizza without hot sauce? Kold Sauce brings the heat and completes the lineup.
When? Sunday 17th September. 12pm-late.
Where? 5 Dalston Lane, London, E8 3DF.
No ticket needed, walk-ins only.
See you there.
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We had an idea... How about the coffee world took a breather to celebrate shared passions and spend an afternoon sampling some of the finer things in life.
On Saturday 22nd April, Nomad Coffee (Barcelona) and Assembly Coffee (London) invited colleagues, friends, family to join them for an afternoon of beverages at the Assembly roastery in Brixton, south London.
It was opportunity to wrap lips around some of Spain's finest low intervention wines and vermouths. It was an opportunity to try some crazy coffees. But really, after a rather... interesting few years, it was an opportunity for our communities to come together, socialise and connect over a common interest in tasty things.
We held a fundraising raffle with prizes kindly donated by Sage, Brewed By Hand, Minor Figures and Kold Sauce. All funds raised go to Well Grounded - an organisation supporting those with barriers to employment.
Thank you to all who came, it was quite the time.
Unidos.
]]>The Makers Christmas Market brings together a community of our favourite London makers and creators - all unique in their own space but similar in the values of quality, purpose and craft.
We'll welcome sewists, jewellers, ceramicists, artists and designers to exhibit their hand-crafted pieces. And coffee, wine and food will be served up by some of London's finest tastemakers.
Klei was founded by London-based potters; Jessica Joslin and Skye Corewijn in 2018. Klei celebrates and represents local makers of hand thrown ceramics. Here you'll find bowls, jugs, vases, plates and some other small pieces from makers from around London and also further beyond.
In 2014, Newcomer Wines emerged as an unconventional wine importer specialising in ‘The New Old World’ and sourcing wines from Austria - a country close to their hearts. Since then, they have ventured to other countries that culturally and historically share deep common grounds. In 2017 they opened their first bar in Dalston, east London and it quickly became a destination for the city's wine enthusiasts.
Tinuke Fagborun is a British-Nigerian illustrator living in London. She celebrates diverse storytelling, and her art is a colourful and optimistic response to the dominant narrative surrounding women of colour in media and the art world. She creates illustrations in which women are uncensored, empowered, otherworldly, and the architects of their own rich stories.
Four Boroughs is a south London specialty coffee company, founded in 2017 with their first shop in Crystal Palace. Quickly becoming a favourite for local coffee enthusiasts and keen road cyclists alike with Assembly coffee, delectable food and welcoming atmosphere, they opened their second shop in Loughborough Junction in 2020.
Kim and Guiseppe Bloom-Mangione are on a mission to help solve the UK's dog welfare crisis. Founded in early 2022, Muthapuppa stocks a diverse range of products from waterproof jackets to detangling spray and everything in between. A percentage of the pet store's profits goes directly to several dog charities, and their goal is to build the first Muthapuppa Rescue and Rehoming Centre for Dogs.
Monta Monta was founded in 2015 by cosmetic scientist, Montague Ashley-Craig, and creates multi-functional and refillable botanical skincare products. Many of the formulations make use of hyper-locally sourced and/or waste raw materials from east London where the brand is based and the products created.
Kikina Designs is a London-based print and graphic designer originally from Moscow, Russia. Her inspiration is drawn from Russian culture, the arts, and 1990s aesthetics. All artworks are unique, one-of-a-kind pieces, and all prints are painted by hand.
South London Indian streetfood legend Rajen P (The Homies Kitchen) will be serving up a Christmas menu, inspiring by a recent month-long research trek across Mexico. Expect some wild infusions from one of the city's most exciting flavour artists.
Soka Linens is Sonya Karlsson, a Norwegian born, London-based sewist. She creates pieces for everyday use from materials which have clear functional purpose in the home and utilises sustainable fabrics which incorporate unique variation in texture. She sources fabrics locally to her home in south London where all items are hand cut and sewn.
Natasha Godfrey is a London-based artist and photographer who specialises in pen and ink illustration, and travel photography. She's travelled the world with her pen and sketchbook, and in recent years has become renowned for her drawings of south London shop fronts, pubs and restaurants.
Kold Sauce was born in the States and brewed in London. Their mission was to give Kold Sauce the same profile as the bright red, no frills, American hot pepper sauce they grew up with. The challenge was to produce it with only natural ingredients and the grace of fermentation. Over a handful of years, hundreds of trials and many thousands of chillies, they landed on a sauce they couldn’t be more proud of.
Easthope Studio is a London-based jeweller who creates pieces using eco or recycled base metals. They've been creating jewellery since the age of seven, foraging for sea glass on Brighton beach and scouring local charity shops. They offer pieces to create small, personally curated collections with the ethos of buying less and buying better.
BirdĒ Feathers is mum, Anneliese, and daughter, Nico. Together they're up-cycling bicycle materials to create 'feather' earrings.
Lutiki makes handcrafted knits from high-quality yarns: merino, cashmere and cotton. Hats, gloves, scarves, cardigans are all created with sustainably-sourced, natural materials.
Quinn and Quill create low-impact, ethical greetings cards for all occasions. Materials are 100% recycled and their supply chain is totally plastic-free. All cards are designed and printed in the UK, and a percentage of sales is donated to environmental UK charities.
The tension between classical and new definitions of value simmers on the surface of specialty coffee. New generations of innovative industry players facilitate and cultivate emerging trends that challenge the status quo and confront existing reference points for quality. It’s a sector fuelled by the perpetual chase to answer the question of ‘How can this be better?’
While the question is asked often, the time and space to answer thoughtfully comes by rarely. Specialty’s pace of progress, while a strength, can threaten its own foundational integrity. Is it a valuable and sincere trend, or is it misplaced and short-lived hype?
This year’s Coffee Studies talks programme, taking place on day two of Caffe Culture 2022 and curated once again by Assembly Coffee, is an opportunity to debate the pressing issues faced by stakeholders across the specialty coffee supply chain.
It spotlights the new generation of speciality coffee businesses - from tech disruptors to producer-exporter groups, and it investigates pioneering operating models and partnerships.
Speakers will join us from multiple sectors, including coffee producers, sustainability experts, large retail consortiums, research institutions, SME business owners, investment funds, exporters, traders, and coffee competition champions to participate in our TED talk-style format and panel programme.
The Assembly team will be on stand A5 serving up a new washed Ethiopian - Genji Challa - on espresso, and the latest Limited Edition, Alex Bermudez, on hand brew.
And twice each day, we'll brew the soon-to-launch Mauricio Shattah Sidra - the coffee our Head Roaster Claire Wallace will take to the World Barista Championship in Melbourne later in September. Follow us on Instagram for timings.
Caffe Culture is hosted at the Business Design Centre, Islington, London from Thursday 1st to Friday 2nd September and is free to attend.
]]>Catch a view of Grove Lane Deli when the road is clear of cars and you could be forgiven for thinking you'd stepped back in time. The deli's striking, original Victorian windows are framed by fresh dark green paint. Above the glass, Old Style lettering wraps around the facade in soft gold. Is it 2022, or 1882?
It's these attentions to detail that has Camberwell paying attention to the details. A month or so before officially opening in early February 2022, owner and head baker Danielle opened the door to offer a batch of freshly-baked cookies to inquisitive passers-by. They sold out in two hours.
Since opening, it's been more of the same. Daily, as the last coffee is poured before closing time, the counter is nothing but crumbs. Slithers of roasted coconut flakes fallen from brown butter lamingtons, drops of frosting left behind by white chocolate and pistachio cakes are all that remains. Regulars don't know what's coming next, and they love it.
The ever-evolving cakes and bakes offering has since been complimented by a housemade lunchtime sandwich menu and, no surprises here, its been a roaring success.
The deli's a tight squeeze, so a handful of tables are pitched outside. But, it turns out, the most sought-after seat in the house is the pavement across the street. Find a clean enough spot, swivel so you're facing south down Grove Lane as it snakes up towards East Dulwich and 'Pavement best seat' as it's been fondly dubbed by the team gets you the best of the spring and summer sun.
Back inside, a diverse spread of sundries sourced from Peckham to Palestine packs the shelves. The fridge is filled with fresh pasta, cheese and juices. One narrow floor-to-ceiling nook is stacked with wine. Come out for the pavement pastry and coffee, head home with snacks and dinner.
Little Grove Lane Deli has made a big impact on Camberwell, and we're proud to be with them for the ride.
Open 8am-4pm Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-3pm Sunday.
Grove Lane Deli serves Assembly Blend on espresso.
Header image features owner Danielle (L) and head barista Florian (R).
]]>Earlier this year, we opened up a surprise delivery to our Brixton roastery and were greeted Headstand - the UK's first coffee leaf seltzer. Zingy, fruity and floral - it's a delicious thirst-quencher full of natural anti-oxidants, which makes use of an often undervalued part of the coffee plant.
As we made our way through the first few cans, it became very obvious that the citrus, tea-like flavour profile of Headstand would lend itself to a refreshing summer cocktail.
Initial ideas scribbled down, we invited Headstand founder Josh Tarlo to our Brixton roastery for a couple of tastings with Assembly Head Roaster Claire Wallace. Several coffees and a few glasses later, we had our drink.
For the Sherry Crush, we've paired Headstand with our first Kenyan coffee of the year, Kenya - Kigwandi AA, two varieties of sherry, pineapple syrup and a squeeze of lemon juice. The result? A fruity, nutty, aromatic long drink perfect for sipping in the sun.
The Amontillado sherry enhances the natural nutty, caramel flavours of the coffee, the Fino matches the citrus notes of the Headstand and adds a subtle, complex, slightly savoury element to the mix. A drop of sweet pineapple syrup brings everything together.
The Assembly x Headstand Sherry Crush - multi-layered, perfectly balanced. Time to kick back and relax.
For brewing the coffee component of the Sherry Crush, we recommend the pour over method. This recipe will give you 200ml flash brew coffee. You will need:
In a Collins glass or large highball glass, gently mix together the first five ingredients. Then fill the glass with crushed ice and top with Headstand. Garnish with a sprig of mint, a twist of lemon and a thin slice of fresh ginger.
Enjoy.
In collaboration with wine bar and restaurant group Sager and Wilde, we're excited to announce a four-week pop-up cafe at Fare - the group's all-day cafe and bar in Clerkenwell, east London.
With coffee from Assembly and pastries from Flor Bakery, the cafe is brought to you by Ben Eames aka Bubbly Batch. Formerly barista at Prufrock, Ben is making a name for himself in the London coffee community with his increasingly daredevil filter coffee brewing, delivered on social media with a dry wit that we challenge anyone to not crack a laugh at.
Where did Bubbly Batch originate, and where is it going? We asked the man himself...
'Bubbly Batch started in Siop Shop in Manchester, where I ordered a batch brew and it arrived with a thick head of bubbles. I posted a photo on my story with the hashtag #bubblybatch and thought it was quite funny.
Then I did it again and again. After a few posts, followers were sending me their own brews, and it started to grow. I started to make a few videos, got some designs done and dropped my first run of merch as well. Now I've got #bubblybatch posts coming in most mornings, and I'm about to release another bunch of merch. It's growing and it's exciting - I'm loving how many people are getting involved.
Bubbly Batch is and always will be about having fun with coffee. My perspective on specialty coffee is all about enjoying it and not taking it too seriously, and that’s what Bubbly Batch encapsulates. A small and developing coffee community, bringing people together.'
Catch Ben and the bubbliest batch in London from 7.30-15.00, Monday to Friday for the whole of July.
Fare London
11 Old St
London
EC1V 9HL
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Twenty steps up from street level, on a covered terrace filled with lush plants and brightly-coloured, 1970s-inspired furniture, for a moment you could mistake your surroundings for the Mediterranean, not central London.
Perched on the western edge of 180 The Strand, Toklas is the first restaurant from Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover - founders of Frieze London.
Named after the infamous twentieth-century food writer Alice B. Toklas, the vast dining room and in-house bakery focuses on the highest-quality produce, presented with polished simplicity.
Head of Operations Claire Wright is supported in the restaurant by Assistant Manager Dominic Tooth (left and right in first photo). The food menu is fish and plant-based, and everything is sourced sustainably.
Downstairs, the in-house bakery - headed up by ex-Little Bread Pedlar Adam Sellar and Janine Edwards - is centred around premium citrus from Spain.
Serving up Assembly Blend and a rotation of single origins across both the dining room and bakery, Toklas is making a name for itself as a multi-faceted, diversified destination for food and coffee lovers alike.
Lunch from 12.00-14.30, Wednesday to Saturday.
Dinner from 17.30-22.00, Tuesday to Saturday.
Bakery open 8.00-16.00, Tuesday to Friday; 10.00-16.00 Saturday.
]]>Turin gets hot in the summer. Really hot.
The city is overlooked by the Alps to the west and north, protecting it from the prevailing weather fronts. And it sits at the eastern edge of the Susa Valley that runs all the way from the French border to the outskirts of the city....
]]>The city is overlooked by the Alps to the west and north, and it sits at the eastern edge of the Susa Valley that runs all the way from the French border to the outskirts of the city.
The result? There’s no wind. None. You’d think a breeze would be pushed down the valley, towards and through the city streets. It never happens.
It means the heat is stifling. It just doesn’t lift as the air is so still. And it’s one of the reasons why the city is so polluted. It’s often cloaked in smog.
But it’s home.
I always knew I wanted to stay for my studies, I wanted to go to the University of Turin. What I couldn’t have known was how little I’d enjoy the Business Management degree I enrolled on.
While I was studying, I got a role in finance for a business in the city so I’d have some money coming in. And I’m glad I did - I quit my studies after three years. It really wasn't for me.
I kept the job for another two years but part of me could never come to terms with the potential of spending my working life sat behind a desk, staring at a screen.
It was 2014, I was 24.
Some friends, my mother and her partner at the time had a plan to open a coffee and tobacco shop. They asked if I wanted in and I thought I’d give it a shot, why not?
We met with a local roastery who offered commodity coffee but who’s owner had an interest in specialty coffee. He was SCA-qualified and keen to help progress the very small specialty scene in Turin. With him, we did an intensive week-long training course, eight hours every day.
He showed us a love and respect for coffee that I hadn’t seen before. By the end of it, we were hooked. We wanted to open a shop serving high-quality specialty coffee.
But remember, this is Italy. The majority of Italians drink espresso and espresso only. The coffee is always commodity-grade, to ensure the drink always costs one Euro. No more, no less. So, while we had plans for a specialty-grade offering, we had to have the one-Euro espresso on the menu.
It didn’t take us long to find a coffee shop next door to a tobacco shop. We took over and operated them separately for a year. Then we knocked the walls through, refitted the space and began building the business we’d envisioned.
I’ll be honest. It didn’t work. We underestimated how difficult it would be to promote specialty coffee to the Torinese. Most of our regular customers were happy with their usual espresso and two sugars. So we focused on serving the best commodity-grade coffee we could, while offering specialty filter coffee to the few who were interested.
I was disheartened, but the experience showed me I wanted to put all my energy into specialty coffee. I had found something that excited me and motivated me to learn. As I improved my skills on the coffee machine, in particular steaming and pouring milk, I began to experiment with latte art.
Experimentation turned into obsession and soon I was spending every minute of my free time practicing - pouring rosettas, tulips, swans, hanging hearts. I was chasing perfection. I had the bit between my teeth and was pushing myself harder and harder to master my new obsession.
It paid off.
I steamed my first jug of milk during the week-long training course in 2014 and by November 2016 I was competing in the northern heat of the 2017 Italian Latte Art Championship - the winner qualified for the national final. I won the whole damn thing.
The final was in the following January in Rimini, 450 kilometres south-east of Turin on the Adriatic coast. I had eight minutes to present one free pour (a design created with a jug only) and one designer (created with a jug and etching). My free pour was a reverse tulip, and my designer was a lion’s face with a pirate eyepatch and moustache. I finished 10th out of 11 competitors. I was so happy; I was the 10th-best latte artist in Italy.
Back in Turin, I knew my time at Trebi was ending. Man, during training for the competition, I had been working from 5.30am to 7.30pm and then practising on the machine from 8pm to midnight. Then I’d get home, eat, have four hours sleep and head back to the shop. That was my life, seven days a week. I learnt a lot about myself in that period. My limits, how my mind works, how much my body can take.
It was summer 2017 and I was tired. I was tired but invigorated by what I’d achieved in Rimini. I wanted less hours working and more time practicing for the next competition. I poured my last coffee at Trebi and I joined Orso.
Orso was famous. It was the jewel in Turin’s specialty coffee crown. Students and tourists queued along the pavement to choose from six single origin filter coffees, three espresso blends, Moka, Aeropress, V60, syphon. It offered coffee and a few pastries, nothing else.
It was very similar to the best coffee shops in London at the time in that sense - focusing purely on a super high-quality coffee offering. There weren’t many other similar cafes in Italy, let alone Turin. It was a big step up for me.
Now I had the time and a clearer head to push myself deeper into my practice. But this didn’t mean more hours spent behind the machine, more working harder. It meant working smarter.
I entered the 2018 competition… And didn’t get through the heats. The top two go through and in both rounds I finished third. Was I getting worse? What happened to working smarter? I passed it off as a bad day.
I entered the 2019 competition… And qualified second. I went to Rimini, flew through the semi-final and then finished sixth. I’d beaten my previous best of 10th.
I was happy, sort of. I’d been at Orso for two years and I could feel myself getting distracted with thoughts of ‘what’s next?’
I left Orso for the same reason I left Trebi. I stopped learning. I knew that if I had nothing left to learn at Orso, it was time to leave Turin. I considered Milan. I thought about Amsterdam, Berlin. But there was only one option if I wanted to truly challenge myself again.
I’d visited once before. I’d watched in disbelief as the cars, vans, buses, bicycles catapulted and criss-crossed through the narrow side streets and vast junctions swarmed with wide-eyed tourists. I’d made a promise to myself to never drive a vehicle in London. Turin traffic is bad enough, but London? Forget it.
I remembered that promise, long broken as I peeled the latest parking ticket off the van windscreen, jumped back into the driver’s seat and took the first left back onto Oxford Street.
It was September 2019. After a couple of months working behind the bar at a coffee shop in west London, I’d landed a role in the technical team at Assembly Coffee. This was the biggest learning curve yet. I could master any coffee machine with my eyes shut but I had very little idea of the intricacies of how they function.
I’m curious. I needed to fully understand the mechanics that enabled me to brew coffee. My only concern was that my latte art skills would suffer. At Orso I was pouring 100 cups of coffee a day, five days a week. And now I wasn’t making coffee at all. I was spending all my time either behind the wheel or deep inside a machine.
I was open with Assembly from my first interview - I said that I would need time and space to continue practising as I had my eyes on the UK Latte Art Championship. And I’m so grateful that they listened and understood.
Then in March 2020, Covid hit. I got furloughed, that year’s competition was cancelled.
In terms of planning, nothing changed. SCA rules mean that to enter any competition, you must have lived in the host country for at least two years beforehand. So I couldn’t have entered in 2020 anyway. I had been aiming for 2021 anyway.
During the first two months of lockdown, I was pouring patterns at home for two or three hours a day. Thankfully I came back to work quickly, I was back in the van by May. I would spend an hour or two practising on the machine at our roastery in Brixton once I’d clocked off for the day. This was my routine for a year. Repeating, reworking, refining.
Due to Covid, the semi-final and final of the 2021 competition were held on consecutive days at Café Culture, September 2nd-3rd. There were no heats. Twenty competitors went straight into the semi-final and for that round we had to present three designs - two free pours and one macchiato.
I had chosen my designs around six months before the competition. For the free pours, I’d chosen The Rider (to celebrate a colleague at Assembly who is obsessed with motorbikes) and Kobe Bryant (to commemorate the life of my favourite sportsperson), for the macchiato I had The Koala.
If I made it through to the final, I would have to present the two free pours, plus one designer. For my designer piece I’d chosen Superman (my favourite song is ‘Superman’ by Five for Fighting).
You know, the hardest part, by far, is transferring the idea you have in your mind into your cup. Fundamentally you must care about the pattern, it has to mean something to you.
Then you have limitations to consider. One - you have a circle-shaped canvas. That isn’t easy. And two, you have a limited number of elements you can use to create your pattern. You have the tulip, the rosetta and you have dry foam. Yes, this restricts you. But it also pushes your creativity - you have to change your perspective.
And at the same time, you have to be thinking what you could do to add your own unique twist. I added a pirate eyepatch and moustache to my lion in Italy, how was I going to make my mark with my patterns in London?
For Kobe, first I found an image of him I thought would work well within the circular frame. I rapidly realised that I couldn’t have the backboard in the image - its square shape didn’t complement the frame. I tried pouring angel wings on his back as their shape followed the curvature of the cup. It worked. There was my twist.
Then I began testing different elements for different parts of his body. A tulip for his torso? He looked like a duck. A rosetta instead? Perfect.
This is the creative process for all free pour and design patterns. I did the same for The Rider and for Superman as I’d done for Kobe. Settle on your idea, transfer it harmonically, test which elements work, add a twist.
Once you’ve got your designs locked in, it’s all about your routine. You need to be able to deliver your presentation with your eyes closed. You need to know what your hands are doing, where you’re standing, what you’re saying for every single second of your performance.
In the few months before the 2021 competition, I was running through my routine, against the stopwatch, from 5.30am until I started work at 8am. Then again for a couple of hours in the evening after I clocked off. But it was the weekend where I really pushed myself. Six, seven, eight hours non-stop on Saturday and again on Sunday, every single weekend.
It’s the only way to create the muscle memory you need to be able to deliver your presentation on autopilot. I need my brain free to manage so many moving parts, there’s no room for it to have to think about what’s next. It just needs to do it.
During the early run-throughs, the routine was taking eleven minutes, forty-five seconds. Well over the allotted ten minutes.
The easiest way to shave time off is by pouring faster. This is why you spend hundreds of hours pouring the designs before you begin practicing your presentation. The more confident you are, the less time you need to pour accurately and cleanly. During my final practice runs, I was hitting ten minutes exactly.
On the morning of the semi-final, though I was nervous, I’d never felt as confident about a competition. I even spilled a cup during my performance - a big mistake - but it didn’t phase me. I knew I would go through to the final. And I did.
I didn’t look at any of the results. I saw a few designs from the other finalists but didn’t really pay much attention. I stayed focused.
I got a solid night’s sleep. I arrived at the venue early - I was first to present. The nerves returned but I stayed calm. Mostly.
I nailed The Rider, I nailed Superman, I nailed Kobe. I didn’t put a foot or a hand wrong. I finished bang on ten minutes.
I went backstage to meet my coach, Thomas. ‘Dude… What happened?’ I’d dropped the ball, literally.
I hadn’t noticed it at the time, but I’d presented my Kobe design without a basketball. I had presented a basketball player without their ball. I was devastated. All the hard work, the dawns and the dusks spent against the stopwatch. All for nothing.
I had poured that design a thousand times, more. Not once had I forgotten the ball. Until now. That’s competition. That’s what it can do to you.
Thomas tried to reassure me that I’d lose a couple of points at the most, and that I was still in with a shot of winning. He managed to calm me, eventually.
Going first meant I’d watched the other finalists present their designs. I thought I had a pretty good chance of finishing third. There were two other competitors who I thought would finish in the top three. Neither of them had made a mistake, so I told myself third would be a solid result.
They announced third place. It wasn’t me. Was I second? That was easier to believe than fourth. Despite my mistake, I knew my performance and designs were better than fourth place.
When they announced second, and it wasn’t me, I knew I’d won. Sure enough, a minute later they announced me as the winner of the UK Latte Art Championship 2021.
And I hadn’t just won; I’d finished well clear out in first place. The dawns and the dusks were worth it.
The prize? The opportunity to represent the United Kingdom at the World Latte Art Championship in Taiwan, eight weeks later.
So, after a few beers and maybe a whiskey or two, it was back to practise. Winning in London was the culmination of six years of hard work but I needed to get better - there wasn’t long before the World Championship began and I knew the quality of the competitors was going to be a level I’d never competed against before.
After a week of rest, I’d thrown myself back into training. And then the event was moved to Warsaw and rescheduled to June 2022 - an eight-month delay.
The plan was to set aside the final three months of 2021 to create my designs and then January 2022 through to the event was routine run-throughs only. And I’ve followed that schedule pretty much exactly as I’d planned.
I was happy with the designs I used in London, but the designs I’ve created for the World Championship are better. They are more harmonious, geometrically they are more complex, they all have more elements to them. This is me, pushing myself to my limit.
Earlier this year, the event was moved for the third time due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine, from Warsaw to Milan - 140 kilometres northeast of Turin.
So, for a week or so until yesterday, I was back home. Stopwatch on, zoned in. Repeating, refining, repeating, refining.
In between I dropped into Trebi, had a coffee at Orso. Soaked up the baking sun, caught up with mum.
Today we have the pre-competition briefing at the venue in Milan. Tomorrow is game day. I feel good, I feel confident, I feel excited. I've never been this prepared.
Whatever happens, I’ve done everything I can and more.
See you on the floor.
Alessandro competes in the preliminary round of the World Latte Art Championship at 11.45am on Thursday 23rd June at the World of Coffee, Milano Convention Centre, Milan
Assembly Coffee will be there, too. Find us at stand 61 in the Roaster's Village.
]]>Reporting directly to the Board, you will be instrumental in supporting the wider team with business strategy and providing guidance on the best path of growth for the business. You will be responsible for development of a financial platform that will allow us to meet our ambitions of continuing to rapidly scale the business.
You must be an experienced finance business partner, with broad skills spanning financial control and reporting, commercial finance and FP&A. You will be commercially aware, able to analyse performance to drive insight and implement the most profitable recommendations. Working across all functions and levels in the business, including leading a small finance function, you will have excellent communication and relationship building skills.
We're looking for an experienced and enthusiastic administrator to join our team. The role will be based across two locations - West Norwood and Brixton with a primary scope of administering our HR systems, managing our office and supporting our finance team.
HR
Brixton Office Management Responsibilities
Finance Administration Support
Interested?
If you're interested, please apply via email with a CV and covering letter.
]]>Congratulations to Assembly Coffee's Claire Wallace for her outstanding performance on the way to winning the United Kingdom Barista Championship 2022.
After a third place finish in 2016 and a second in 2020, Claire was among the favourites to take home the top prize this time round. And she didn't disappoint.
Claire navigated the semi-final with a measured performance before blowing away the competition in the final. Presenting her espresso, milk-based drink and signature drink with the considered confidence of a twice-previous finalist, she didn't put a foot wrong as she finished well clear of a strong field.
Engaging and clear in her dialogue with the judges, razor-sharp in her beverage preparation and with impeccable timing, Claire looked every inch a champion.
Claire will now go on to represent the United Kingdom at the World Coffee Championships 2022, September 20-21 in Melbourne, Australia.
For brewing the coffee component of the Rugali Rosa, we recommend the pour over method. This recipe will give you 200ml flash brew coffee. You will need:
Grab a highball glass and pour in the Cocchi Rosa, flash brew coffee, Lindores Abbey Aqua Vitae and simple syrup. Half fill the glass with ice and give it a gentle stir to combine. Top up with the Fever Tree Blood Orange Soda, garnish with a wedge of blood orange and serve.
In 2019 Lane Eight Coffee appeared in a cosy space on a residential street in East Dulwich, south London and quickly became a popular destination to enjoy a cappuccino and watch the world go by.
With a focus on simplicity and efficiency, George Rendell and his team navigated the lockdowns of 2020 and ensured the local community had a welcome stop-off on their daily walks.
The business moved to a site on Clapham Common in 2021 and the new location made an instant impression with its stunning interior design and calming vibe. The busyness of the pavement is a distant memory as you close the door behind you.
Head Barista Amily illuminates the space with her warm welcome and the coffee is consistently excellent. Lane Eight Coffee is a real jewel in south London's crown.
The seasonal Assembly House Espresso on espresso. Various Assembly single origins on filter.
Monday to Friday 7.00-15.00, Saturday 8.00-16.00, Sunday 9.00-16.00.
]]>It was a pleasure to catch up with everyone who came by the Assembly stand at the London Coffee Festival 2021. Thomas and Sonya had Wush Wush tasting sweet on pour over, Alessandro won his second latte art title in as many weeks, Claire brought home a bronze in the Coffee Masters competition. A productive four days.
We took the chance to capture the four days on actual film, analogue style. Enjoy the results.
Until next time.
Ben, Ed on brand
Nick, prepped for shot
Tanit, vogue
Thomas, indifferent to Ben's notebook
Kurt, Sonya, eyes wide shut
]]>Stroll through Crystal Palace early on a Saturday morning and you can't miss the road bikes parked up outside Assembly stalwarts Four Boroughs. But why the tight relationship between coffee and cycling? To celebrate the launch of their new exclusive house espresso - No Spro No Go - we got the inside track from founders Tom and Ed.
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Assembly Roaster, Claire Wallace, competes in the 2021 UK Coffee Masters Championships; a multidisciplinary barista competition held over four days at London Coffee Festival where, aside from testing skills which cover all areas of cafe service, baristas must create a signature coffee themed cocktail. Here is Claire's take on a French 75 using coffee gomme and 'birthday dust.'
Claire Wallace - Coffee Masters 2020 from Assembly Coffee on Vimeo.
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On the previous site of the Bow St. Magistrate’s Court the opening of The Nomad hotel becomes the first international site for the group and the UK's first chance to experience food, drink and service as defined by USA's hospitality royalty.
The group have transformed the grade II listed Victorian magistrates court (which formerly played host to the Krays and Oscar Wilde among many other notorious guests) into a culinary utopia making a strong case for The Nomad as the most significant new landmark witnessed in UK food and beverage in recent years.
The experience preserves all of the grandeur of its Victorian past but with a sense of fun, whimsy and warmth that redefines luxury in both a modern and unique way.
The Sydell group hotel is renowned as a benchmark for excellence amongst Luxury Hotels (the London site houses 91 rooms and some hospitality spaces exclusively for hotel guests) but the Nomad’s food and drink programme is so widely accoladed that it almost has an identity of its own. In London guests can choose from the Nomad Restaurant and Bar or Side Hustle bar where classical meets playful in the eclectic array of local fine cuisine from chef Ashley Abodeely or the seasonally led cocktails designed under the direction of Pietro Collina and Leo Robitschek. Wine is directed by Guy Palmer- Brown and features new and exciting English viticulture while Food and Beverage Director, Chris Perone, brings together all of the pieces of a vast and synergistic offering.
We’re incredibly pleased to be the exclusive coffee suppliers of The Nomad London and thrilled to work alongside peers who inspire with such rigorous standards of excellence, attention to detail and insight and expertise. There are four coffee stations at the Nomad serving both rooms and hospitality spaces as well as bespoke coffee pods for in-room.
As the weather warms up Pietro Collina has kindly offered to share The Nomad's take on a Cold Brew Tonic named Mr. Paradise. The drink is named Mr. Paradise to honour a former bartender of The Nomad NYC, Will Wyatt, who created the drink while working with the company. Will has just recently opened his own bar named Mr. Paradise in the East Village so to commemorate the opening the team decided to name the drink after it.
*Cane Syrup – 2:1 evaporated cane sugar to hot water. Combine and blend until all the sugar is incorporated, and strain.
**Vanilla syrup – 500g of white sugar, 500g of hot water, scrape 1 vanilla pod. Blend until all the sugar is incorporated, and strain.
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We've partnered with Choose Love to raise funds and aid the support of refugees.
Whether fleeing danger or rebuilding in a safe place Choose Love provide everything from life saving rescue boats to legal advice, hot meals and shelter for millions of refugees around the world. With support of over 130 organisations and 35,000 volunteers in 15 countries they'll stop at nothing to assist refugees at every stage of their journey.
100% of the proceeds from the coffee, which goes on sale this Saturday May 22nd at 10am, will be donated to aiding in the relief efforts of refugees.
The last 18 months have, for most of us, been turbulent to say the least. Negotiating the pressurised environment of the pandemic has left many of us anxious and uncertain. We have spent days or weeks inside our own homes, waiting it out and using social media to stay connected to the world.
The global coffee community has maintained its connection by pivoting to the online realm running virtual farm visits, conferences and competitions. One such competition was Coffee Break UK, an Instagram competition run by Belco Green Importers to raise the profile of their Ethiopian Forest Coffees. These coffees are grown amongst ancient Ethiopian forests, utilising the framework and tools that Mother Nature has provided to grow exceptional coffees in an environmentally sustainable way. I was lucky enough to achieve 2nd place in the contest and, as a result, a 60KG bag of Forest Coffee had arrived at the roastery. It is a beautiful Honey Process coffee grown by Mustefa Mohamed Ali on his family plot.
I was free to do whatever I chose with this coffee, and that choice has been heavily influenced by this last turbulent year. For myself, although it has been stressful, scary and very unwelcome, I was also very aware of my privilege. I live in a very safe country free of war, I have a roof over my head and access to clean water, food and medical care. Many have had to face the Pandemic without some, or all, of this basic rights.
This is why we have chosen to partner with Choose Love for the release of this coffee. Choose Love work across 15 countries with the aim to identify, close and prevent gaps in services and protections for refugees and displaced people. They support over 135 projects across Europe, the Middle East and the US-Mexico border, providing life saving search and rescue boats, food, legal advice, shelter and numerous other essential services to more than one million refugees at every stage of their journey. Refugees fleeing unsafe situations and living in makeshift shelters are now also contending with the global pandemic, making their situation even more difficult.
All proceeds from the sale of each bag will be donated to Choose Love to support their work. As the green coffee is a competition win, this removes the material cost from the equation, which means we can make an even more significant donation.
The coffee itself was illustrated with Choose Love’s Alice and she picked out flavour notes of lemon peel, apricot and black tea. I’m so excited to share this coffee with you all, and be part of the Choose Love movement through our love of coffee.
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Approach Coffee's 3-story flagship cafe is now open in the Yongsan district of central Seoul and will become the exclusive partner for Assembly Coffee in South Korea.
Founder, Linda Lee, is a longstanding friend of ours at Assembly but may be better known to the food and beverage community in the UK as the restauranteur behind Korean street-food restaurants, On The Bab (London/ Paris) and Fitzrovia's Koba.
Although frequently visiting Paris and her native Seoul, Linda has lived in and operated restaurant businesses in the UK for almost 2 decades. The inspiration for Approach Coffee is taken from Linda's experiences of cafe culture here in London and seeks to showcase the very best of coffee, tea and brunch for the people of Seoul.
The site includes rooftop seating as well as a seated garden area and two separate floors dedicated to coffee and tea service On the lower floor a brew-only bar exclusively serves Assembly filter coffees and teas from Good and Proper while an adjoining shop also displays UK-made homewares. On the floor above a seated dining area faces onto the espresso bar service with a Lamarzocco Linea PB and Mythos coffee grinders.
From the menu guests can choose from brunch classics such as such as baked or scrambled egg and preserves as well as sourdough sandwiches daily soups, and even, the classic, Sunday Roast.
At its heart Approach is about partnership, showcasing quality and innovation. Values that we hold dear at Assembly and look forward to supporting together in Korea.
Approach Coffee
18-3 Hangang-daero 40-gil, Yongsan-gu, seoul, Korea
@approachcoffee_
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As a company one of our most fundamental beliefs is in the potential of the specialty coffee model to redistribute opportunity based on merit rather than power. That is that opportunity should be awarded equally.
We can't ignore, therefore, that if we operate in a way that has a net-negative impact on the environment then we're essentially sacrificing natural resource and ultimately opportunity for future generations. It is these same natural resources that have benefitted us on our journey as a business and to not replenish what we take would be inherently unfair.
It is because of this that we've made the decision to certify as a Carbon Neutral company and henceforth all of our products and services will be measured and assured under this system.
Carbon neutrality means achieving net zero carbon dioxide emissions by balancing emitting carbon with absorbing carbon. That is, the emissions of CO2 created by a business' activities reduced to zero through a combination of reducing this 'footprint' while supporting 'sinks' e.g forests which naturally remove CO2 from the atmosphere.
It's impossible to produce roasted coffee without creating carbon but it is possible to reduce the amount created and to counterbalance it to net zero via eco. positive initiatives.
Certification is a 2 stage process where stage one requires partnering with accredited intermediaries to establish a measure of a business' carbon footprint. In this stage for example our packaging, energy, suppliers, transport and every aspect of our supply chain is submitted for rigorous analysis. During this stage we also identify opportunities for efficiencies and carbon reductions. For example, as a result of this we're now proud to say that 100% of the energy used at both of our production sites is from renewable energy sources.
After optimising our footprint we then select from, or propose, carbon positive initiatives to fund to the same positive value that our business operations are negative. In our particular case we wanted to focus on initiatives in the regions we source our raw coffee from and are currently focussing all of our support on an initiative which protects over 13,000 acres of virgin rainforest in the coffee producing communities of Colombia.
We're acutely aware that this is not the end but the beginning and is not an add-on but a decision which informs every area of our business. We look forward to sharing updates on both the conservation at origin but also imminent updates on works-in-progress for how we're reducing our impact here in London.
]]>In celebration of UK Coffee Week 2020 our partners at Page Hotels are partnering with Project Waterfall to raise funds that provide clean water for 50,000 people and more around the world. Room packages begin at the heavily discounted £108 (of which £20 will be donated directly) to Project Waterfall. To redeem the offer use the code: COFFEE when booking at Page Hotels - London
Offer is available for bookings made between October 19-26 and are limited to first-come-first-serve allocations apply.
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As exclusive coffee partners we celebrated the opening of the market by collaborating with drinks industry consultant Rob Dunne on an oriental inspired iced coffee variation.
Working with the Selfridges team our aim was to reflect the diverse sourcing network and international audiences of Selfridges by fusing western tastes with eastern tea and coffee culture. The result is a take on Yuengyeung (milk tea coffee) that pairs flavours of the spice trade routes with European style filter coffee.
Read down for Rob's recipe:
*Turmeric, Saffron and nutmeg have well documented links to health benefits including containing antioxidants, anti-inflammatory properties and even treating depression.
** We found this works exceptionally well with the fruit forward but tea-like profile of the Rwanda - Shyira.
Where: Edwards Mews (rear of Selfridges flagship Oxford street store W1A 1AB)
When: Every Saturday and Sunday from 9am
]]>After studying English Literature/ Art History and a brief stint in the music industry Skye found her love for tactility and craft fulfilled at the seat of a pottery wheel.
In 2014 Skye began working on bespoke commissions for some of London’s leading fine dining restaurants and today she continues this collaborative working process which combines functional purpose and aesthetic form.
Skye’s work focuses on simple forms and elevated tactility. Texture features prominently across all mediums while usability and function underline the objective with every piece.
Skye's work is available via her webshop and at klei - co-founded with Jess Joslin - in Netil Market, Hackney and available online
In partnership with Skye we’ve sought to create a series of cups which are optimum for drinking filter coffee. The form is designed to fit comfortably in the palm of a hand while the wide mouth to encourages faster cooling, heightens the perception of mouthfeel, and highlights clarity in flavor.
The wall width is approximately 5mm to enhance the rate of cooling while maintaining an elegant weight in the hand. When the cup cools to where it can be held comfortably the coffee will be within the ideal temperature window for ideal evaluation of taste. Each cup comfortably holds 220ml.
These cups are made from 80% porcelain blended with 20% coarse stoneware (crank). Porcelain is the strongest clay medium and generally regarded as the most refined. The introduction of stoneware and choice not to glaze the outside of the cups is a deliberate effort to deliver a tactile and natural experience while drinking.
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A clear glossy glaze is applied to the interior before a secondary firing which reaches a maximum temperature of 1260 where it is held for 20 minutes.
Shop - Porcelain Coffee Cups.
Be the first to know when these cups become available by joining the Assembly Newsletter
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LATE - Latte Art Teams Event:
10 teams of two represent their cafe or business in a latte art competition format where disciplines and scores are designed to reward the reality of serving coffee in a cafe. + 2 wildcard spots available.
Judged by:
1st Prize - expenses paid trip to Paris for the winning team
2nd Prize - day course and create your own ceramic set of cups with Clayworks London
To compete - Post an instagram video story of your best Tulip pour. Tag @late_lateartcomp, your teammate and the company you will be representing.
To attend - register for free via the link
Entries close November 22nd
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Speakers: Lorenzo Cosio @kiddocosio (Co-founder El Union) and Silvester Samonte @coffeecatlifestyle (Co-Founder El Union and Ph. Barista Champion 2016 & 18)
]]>To lead the growth of Assembly Coffee by generating new wholesale business relationships and ensuring a customer experience that always exceeds industry standards and has collaboration at its core.
We’re a fast growing, progressively minded and purpose led work place that values the unique experiences and insights of all individuals.
At Assembly Coffee you’ll have the opportunity to genuinely input as part of a team committed to leading innovation in the specialty coffee industry and within an environment that values and supports your own development.
We offer a comprehensive benefits package including development and advancement programmes, generous work expenses and above standard annual leave.
Come as you are — We’re an equal opportunity workplace that knows that what you’re capable of matters and that’s it.
Salary: £30 - £40k (experience dependent)
]]>Prize — an expenses paid trip for two to London + prizes for all competitors.
Format — teams of two compete representing their cafe in disciplines that simulate the reality of working in a cafe.
Why — open bar espresso martinis for all :-)
Brought to you with our friends at Ten Belles , Minor Figures and Over Under Coffee
]]>1st Place — Routes Coffee (Heidi Philip-Smith and Nick Williams)
2nd — Coffee Lab (Dhan Tamang and Ben Lewis)
3rd — Grind (Sam Trevethyen and Pratik Shrestha)
A HUGE thank you to all of the competitors who entered, the 12 teams selected as finalists and all those who attended for making last Friday's inaugural L.A.T.E competition a night to remember!
Ed Barry, Monwar Hussain and the rest of the team at Over Under Coffee deserve a special mention also for putting together such afun night and some 'Best On Ground' annoying customer performances!
The night wouldn't have been possible, of course, without the support of some very dear partners and a special thanks has to go out to:
The amazing judges Ben Morrow, Esther Masdaam and Marcis Dzelzainis from Manhattan Coffee Roasters and Sager + Wilde respectively.
1st Prize sponsors and Oat Milk Partners - Oatly
Media Partners - Caffeine Magazine
Machine Partners - La Marzocco UK
Thanks again to everyone and until next time!
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